New Bedford, late fall getaway ‘Thar she blows' By Bosley Wilder

When 19th century whaling ships reached whaling waters, lookouts on the tall masts watched for the fountain of spray that told them one of the giant creatures they sought for its oil was nearby. The cry "Thar-r-r -r she blows!" from up in the rigging brought the whole crew into action. Whale boats were launched into the water and the hunt began, in what was to become a major New England industry.

Now, before winter really sets in, it seems a good time to make a spontaneous getaway to a special place in our history — New Bedford, Mass. Driving to New Bedford from Point Judith takes a little over an hour, but it's worlds away, the atmosphere there an interesting combination of town, country and seaboard.

In the 19th century, New Bedford was the whaling capital of the world. As early as 1836, 170 full-rigged whaling ships called it home port, with more than 4,000 deck hands bringing in almost half of all the whale oil in the young United States. At that time, whale oil was the only fuel for lamps. New Bedford was one of the country's richest cities, having doubled its size in just the preceding six years.

At the height of the whaling era a few years later, the city was to enjoy the highest income per capita in the world. The industry prospered until 1860, when kerosene displaced whale oil for use in lighting, and the whaling industry in Massachusetts began to fail.

This historic fishing port is still home base for the largest fishing fleet on the East Coast. The port recently was declared a National Landmark Historic District.

In 1841, Herman Melville shipped out of New Bedford as a young whaler. The experience inspired him to write "Moby Dick."

The town itself has handsome examples of the "brave houses and flowery gardens" Herman Melville describes in "Moby Dick." The cobblestone streets and period lighting evoke a fascinating piece of New England's past.

A museum for the kids

The century-old New Bedford Whaling Museum contains the largest collection of whaling artifacts in the world. It has just undergone a $10 million renovation. During the afternoon we spent there, we were captivated by the vivid reminders of a past so different from our own. There are galleries devoted to ship models, whaling tools and gear, a fully-equipped whaleboat, a 98-foot mural of sperm whales, and a complete skeleton of KOBO, the rare Blue Whale, largest mammal in the world.

Also, a fascinating display of scrimshaw made me aware how little I knew about those fine small carvings and engravings made by American whalers from whale bone or whale ivory.

Among its many sea treasures, the Whaling Museum features a whaling ship built to half-scale. With equipment and furnishings all shrunk down, it's the delight of halfpints who can run the mast, command the helm, and otherwise fancy themselves worthy sailors.

Just across from the Whaling Museum on Johnny Cake Hill is Seamen's Bethel. During the early part of the 19th century, when the whaling industry was being firmly established in New Bedford, the town's leading citizens began wailing — pun intended — about the licentious lifestyle of many of the 5,000 seaman coming in and out of the port. As part of the moral and religious support offered by the growing town, a Mariners Chapel was built, later enlarged to become the Seamen's Bethel. It is this chapel Melville used as a setting in "Moby Dick."

The little chapel is well worth a visit. Its walls are lined with touching cenotaphs in memory of the many men who lost their lives at sea.

Regular church services are still conducted at the Bethel. Next door is the Mariner's Home, where present day transient seamen who " go down to the Sea in Ships, that do business in great waters" and who "desire a clean and wholesome place to stop for a while" are welcome.

From the Whaling Museum, there are picturesque views of the cobblestone streets, the shops and the waterfront with its fishing trawlers and the fisherman's wharf. A friend and I went down on a clear, sunny Sunday, and enjoyed a delightful. brisk walk along the dock and nearby Hurricane Breech.

Portuguese presence

The salt-spray air whetted our appetites for some of New Bedford's renowned Portuguese food. Antonio's Restaurant on Coggeshall Street off Route 18 serves delicious, authentic home-cooked Portuguese cuisine at very reasonable prices. Three hungry grownups had a meal for less than $40. That included three steins of beer with our paella and ensopada de vaca(beef stew), preceded by lovely kale soup. And one coffee.

In late July, the city hosts the oldest and largest festival of Portuguese culture in the nation, the Feast of the Blessed Sacrament. It also celebrates the port's traditional Blessing of the Fleet ceremony, which includes three days of whaleboat races, tall ships, fireworks, and a seafood fest.

New Bedford is full of interesting little niches. The city's Quaker founders made the area a major stop on the Underground Railroad during the nation's struggle again slavery. Abolitionist leader Frederick Douglass found his freedom and voice in New Bedford. His home in the city has been designated a National Historic Landmark.

At the First Baptist Church at 149 Williams Street, Robert's Rules of Parliamentary Order were first promulgated. Just up the street, at 169, is a pleasant little arts and crafts gallery where local artists display their work.

New Bedford has a fine performing arts center, The Zeiterion Theatre. A meticulously restored vaudeville era building, it maintains its original wall tapestries, massive chandeliers and a vintage Wurlitzer theatre organ from the age of silent film. The theatre is home to the New Bedford Symphony Orchestra.

The town also supports an active art museum and a public library with one of the world's largest whaling logbook collections.

To reach the New Bedford Visitors Center, telephone (800)508-5353. Bosley Wilder can be reached c/o The Block Island Times, or via email: bosleywilder@mediaone.ne